Prune now

Thinning out

On frost-free days a few old branches can be pruned off shrubs at the base, (not on spring-flowering shrubs), so that more light and air can get to the heart of the bush. This also promotes the growth of new shoots.

Trim ivy

Cutting away an excess of old foliage stimulates the growth of young, fresh leaves.
Also remove shoots from places where they should preferably not grow (on paintwork and under eaves). This also applies to shoots of climbers such as Russian vine (Fallopia), Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus) and trumpet creeper (Campsis).

Fruit trees

Prune your fruit trees before the end of February. Later pruning can lead to loss of sap. Bear in mind that vigorous pruning will promote the growth of substantial shoots.
Wait until May before pruning trees with stoned fruits - such as cherries, plums, nectarines, peaches and apricots - because of the risk of silverleaf disease.

Prune newly planted hedges

If you want a newly planted hedge to develop well over the coming spring, you need to cut it back before the end of February. This particularly applies to varieties such as privet, hawthorn and hornbeam (Carpinus).
Flowering hedges (such as Forsythia) are best cut back after flowering.

Wound dressing

Cover wounds with wound dressing. The risk of fungal infections is great, particularly on deciduous varieties. With conifers always leave a branch stump; you should therefore not saw smooth to the trunk. On deciduous trees make sure that the collar - the thickening at the start of the branch - is left in place.